What Causes the Bow-Tie Effect in Oval Diamonds?

Oval diamonds offer graceful elongation, vintage charm, and modern brilliance—but they also come with one unique characteristic: the bow-tie effect. If you've ever noticed a dark shadow across the center of an oval-shaped diamond, you're seeing this phenomenon firsthand.

In this guide, we’ll explain what the bow-tie effect is, why it matters, and how it influences the look, light performance, and desirability of your diamond—whether natural or lab-grown.

What is the bow-tie effect?

The bow-tie effect is a visible dark area, shaped like a small bow tie, that appears across the central width of certain fancy-cut diamonds—particularly oval, pear, marquise, and occasionally radiant shapes.

It’s not a flaw in the diamond itself. It’s a visual result of how the diamond interacts with light, and it’s especially noticeable in diamonds with elongated proportions.

What causes the bow-tie effect?

The effect is caused by light leakage due to the diamond’s proportions and faceting pattern. When a diamond isn’t cut to ideal angles, light entering from the top isn’t fully reflected back to the viewer’s eye.

Instead, some light escapes through the pavilion, and this incomplete light return produces a shadowed shape across the center when viewed from above.

A bow-tie is usually seen in diamonds that:

Are elongated in shape
Have shallow or uneven pavilion angles
Lack proper facet symmetry

It’s not always avoidable—but its intensity can vary greatly.

How does it look in real life?

The bow-tie appears as a pair of symmetrical, dark triangular shadows on either side of the diamond’s vertical axis. It can:

Vary in size and darkness
Show up more clearly in certain lighting conditions
Be noticeable in motion, not just when still
Distract from the diamond’s fire and brilliance
In extreme cases, it can make an otherwise high-quality diamond appear dull or off-center.

Is some bow-tie normal in oval diamonds?

Yes. Nearly all oval diamonds show some degree of bow-tie. A subtle, narrow bow-tie is often desirable—it creates contrast that enhances sparkle and depth. However, when it's too broad or dark, it takes away from the diamond’s brilliance and overall appearance.

At White Diamonds, we help you view each stone in motion to judge how the bow-tie behaves in real lighting, not just in lab reports.

How does it affect diamond jewelry?

Because the bow-tie falls right across the visible top of the diamond, it directly impacts:

1. Visual brilliance

The darker the bow-tie, the less the diamond will sparkle in that area. You may notice it lacks the "fire" or "scintillation" that makes diamonds so captivating.

2. Perceived symmetry

A pronounced bow-tie can disrupt the balance of the stone, making it appear off-center or uneven—especially in solitaire settings where the center diamond is the focal point.

3. Emotional impact

Most buyers want a diamond that shines consistently. A shadowed bow-tie can subtly affect how joyful or satisfied someone feels when they look at their ring.

Do lab-grown diamonds show the bow-tie effect?

Yes. Lab-grown diamonds have the same crystal structure and optical properties as natural diamonds, so the bow-tie effect can occur in both. What determines the presence and intensity of the bow-tie is the cut quality, not the origin.

At White Diamonds, we offer expert diamond guidance to help you compare both lab-grown and natural options side by side—and select the one that offers the best light performance for your budget.

Can the bow-tie be removed or improved?

No. The bow-tie is built into the diamond’s cut, so it cannot be corrected once the stone is finished. That's why it’s essential to:

View your diamond in person or in high-definition video
Evaluate it under natural and artificial lighting
Rotate the stone to see how it reflects light in motion

Working with a trusted jeweler ensures you won’t be surprised by an overly visible bow-tie after the ring is set.

How to choose an oval diamond without a strong bow-tie

Here’s what to prioritize:

Excellent or Ideal Cut Grade – A well-cut diamond reflects more light evenly.
Length-to-Width Ratio between 1.35 to 1.50 – Proportional symmetry helps balance light performance.
Face-up inspection – Nothing replaces seeing the diamond with your own eyes or with professional guidance.
Ask for comparisons – At White Diamonds, we help you compare multiple oval cuts to spot differences in bow-tie visibility.

What diamond styles are most affected?

The bow-tie effect is most visible in jewelry where the diamond is the centerpiece:
Oval solitaire engagement rings
Three-stone rings featuring elongated centers
Halo settings that surround the diamond, drawing attention to its core
Lab-grown oval earrings or pendants, when seen from straight on

If you’re considering any of these, make sure the stone passes both cut quality and face-up appearance tests.

The White Diamonds difference

Choosing an oval diamond is about more than just shape or carat weight—it’s about optical beauty. At White Diamonds, we take the time to educate our clients on cut quality, guide them through real visual inspections, and help them discover the diamond that truly shines from every angle.

We also offer: